Not many who see that photo, or even see pie and mash in real life, share an instant love for its beauty. But for those who have grown up with it, pie and mash is the stuff of dreams. A traditional and hearty working class meal hailing from the cockney heartland east end of London, these beef or lamb pastry pies are teamed with plain and simple mashed potato and a green gravy-type sauce, known as liquor, made from the water left over from stewing jellied eels, and plenty of parsley.
Traditional pie and mash shops, most of which have remained unchanged since opening in the nineteenth century, have an ambience and atmosphere – with their tiled walls and marbled floors – that make the food what it is. For me, nowhere matches up to Harrington’s pie and mash shop in Tooting, south-west London. This is my favourite food in the world, and this is my favourite place to eat it.
Harrington’s, 3 Selkirk Road, Tooting, London SW17 0ER
020 8672 1877
Open Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, 11.00am-9.00pm; Wednesdays, 11.00am-2.00pm; closed Mondays.
This post was updated on 27 October 2013 to add additional photos.